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Ceramic Floor Tile Installation |
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Decide how you want the tile laid out.
Mark the center of the floor by measuring one wall and then the opposing wall, place a mark at the center point of each wall and use a chalk line between the 2 marks. Repeat this for the remaining 2 walls. Starting in the center select 1 of the 4 squares you created. Lay your tile on one of the lines, with spacers, until you can’t get anymore whole tile on the line. Measure the remaining distance to the wall. Decide if this is acceptable size for both cutting and for aesthetics. If it acceptable do the same as above for either of the lines between the other 2 walls. If you don’t like the cut piece for either or both walls move your line(s) to a point that is acceptable. Focus on the main focal point of the room when deciding the layout, especially in larger rooms. Tile under cabinets and appliances are not as important as tiles that show. Keep cut tiles that show as large as possible. For small rooms, like bathrooms, be sure to keep cuts the same size on opposing walls by moving your line to allow for the largest cut tiles as possible. Once you’ve decided on the final layout spray the chaulk line with hairspray, this will help keep the spreading of grout from erasing the line.
Now is the time to install membrane or floor heating systems if desired? Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter. Failure to do so could void the warranty, create an unstable floor, or cause dangerous electrical problems. Some areas do not allow the installation of floor heating systems unless installed by a licensed electrician. Check your local building codes before proceeding.
Use the proper thinset mortar for the tile you are using. Natural stone requires a different mortar than ceramic and porcelain tile. Buying a better grade of mortar is always best. Mix the thin set mortar as instructed on the bag. Using the flat side of the properly notched trowel for the tile you are using (also listed on bag) cover about 3 square feet of the surface the same depth as the notches on the trowel. Now spread the mortar out using the trowel at a 45 degree angle to the surface with the notched side down. This should leave you with a surface resembling a field ready for planting.
Starting with your first cut tile, at your line, next to the wall or tub opposite the door or entryway where you plan to finish. Continue laying tile across the wall or tub until you reach the corner where 2 sides of the tile need to be cut. Cut these 2 tiles now if you haven’t already done this and lay these tiles. Continue laying row after row making sure you stay aligned with your line and keep ahead with your mortar in order to keep the depth of the mortar the same. There are many ways to set each tile into the mortar, for floors I cut a piece of 2X4 a little longer than my tile and wrap it on one side with an old piece of carpet. I than lightly tap each tile making sure that each tile is set evenly with the tiles next to it. This is especially important where the corners meet. Every once in awhile it’s a good idea to pull up a tile already set to make sure the mortar is adhering to the complete tile and floor. A tile with hollow spaces under it will break much easier and you need to make sure your mortar isn’t getting to dry (setting up) in your bucket. As you approach your exit opening you will have to start working from the 2 sides towards the middle, so that your last tiles are at the entry. If using a marble thresh this should be set before your last tiles since you do not want to cut the threshold lengthwise. It is better to cut a little off your last tiles than the threshold itself. Your tile is now set so you can take the rest of the day off.
Allow at least 24 hours before grouting the floor. Before grouting it is a good idea to do a once over look at your tile. If any tile is way out of alignment now is the time to scrape it up and replace it. Keep in mind that grout hides slight misalignments, so don’t try to replace half of your tiles. Usually you will only have minor misalignments that don’t require anything being done to them.
Unlike many tile installers I prefer to use grout caulk at areas subject to movement before I grout. Areas, like along the tub edge are vulnerable to leaking so I like this filled with a flexible caulk rather than a solid grout. Mix your grout as recommended on the bag, using additive if recommended. Dump about a cup of grout on the floor opposite the entryway and work it into the grout lines, diagonally, with a grout float. Continue this until all lines are filled, do not stop for a break or for lunch. You want the grout to dry to a film on top of the exposed tile, but do not allow the grout to set too long or it will be a nightmare to sponge off.
Allow the grout to dry at least 24 hours than use a lint free cloth to remove film and polish. After polishing the tile use a high quality sealer to seal the tile (if needed) and grout. Read the sealer instructions for length of time to allow grout to setup and for how many coats of sealer required. After the sealer dries use silicone caulk to caulk next to tub/shower and grout caulk to caulk any areas not caulked above.
Replace any trim removed in the prep stage and you have a new floor that will last several years and increase the value of your home. | 
Ceramic Floor Tile Installation
