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Ceramic Tile Installation |
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Bathroom and kitchen tile comes in many shapes, sizes, and materials. Flat rate or basic install prices are a gimmick at best. As a do it yourself project installing tile is not rocket science, but it is also not slapping on some adhesive and tile like the stores tell you either. Like almost any project, the prep work is the most important part of the installation process. This is especially true on floors and in wet areas. Spongy walls, cracked floor tiles, or grout popping and cracking can’t be truly corrected after installation. If your walls and floors are not properly prepped for tile you will have problems down the road. Taking your time and doing it right the first time will save you money and headaches in the long run. If hiring a contractor be sure to ask questions. This article is a condensed installation guide but it should offer you an idea of what a contractor should do. If a contractor is going above and beyond these basic guidelines that is a good thing as long as the price is reasonable. Every contractor, including us, has run into odd problems that change our installation process. However, if a contractor says this or that isn’t necessary than be wary of his process. Use common sense when choosing a contractor and your finished project will last for several years.
First, consider the available materials; ceramic, porcelain, and natural stone are the major contenders. Any of these materials will work perfectly in your home. Porcelain tile is denser and more chip and crack resistant than ceramic tile. However both ceramic and porcelain tile have a PEI rating which overrides the general material characteristics. PEI ratings run from 1 to 5 with 1 being the softest and 5 the hardest. A rating of 1 should only be used on walls, 2 is okay for kitchen and bathroom walls and floors, 3 is the best for any residential area especially foyer and heavy traffic areas. Ratings of 4 or 5 are normally for commercial installation. Absorption rates are also important in wet areas and outdoors. The lower the absorption rates the better. Areas holding water (shower floors and outdoor pavers) must have an absorption rate less than 3% and lower, if possible. Don’t be fooled by people that tell you that porcelain tile patterns run all the way through the tile. Porcelain tile does come in what is called a “through pattern” but these are hard to find, expensive, and the patterns are limited. Natural stone is in a class by itself. It is much more difficult to install, it is impossible to find perfectly matched tiles, and it requires more upkeep. On the upside it creates a more natural feeling in your home and adds more value than ceramic tile. Nothing says elegance more than natural materials such as stone and hardwood. You will hear people say that tile is too hard and breaks when you drop something on it. This is true to a point. If you drop an iron skillet your tile will crack or break. On the other hand if you drop a glass the tile shouldn’t break. Tile can be replaced a piece at a time so always keep a few tiles for emergencies. Don’t forget that dropping a sharp object onto linoleum will cut it. Try repairing a cut in linoleum on your own and you’d be happy to scrape up a piece of tile and install a new piece.
Second, consider the labor to install each material; ceramic cuts and drills very easily; porcelain is a harder substance than ceramic, making it harder to cut and drill; stone is the hardest material to cut and drill, requires a thicker bed of mortar, should have the edges honed with a special stone so they are not sharp, and should be sealed before installation to prevent the grout from discoloring the stone or filling in the natural fissures.
Third, consider the size and shapes of the material; square material is the easiest to layout, followed by rectangular, with octagon and other shapes being much harder to install. The exception to this is mosaic tile pre-installed to a backer. Tile up to 12”X12” are the easiest to work with and therefore is the cheapest to install. Each progression up in tile size (16”X16”, 24”X24”) generally carries a small labor price increase. The most expensive tile wall is solid granite or other stone walls usually installed in sections 2-3’ wide and full ceiling height using epoxy adhesive. This type of wall should only be done by companies specializing in stone.
Pattern layout affects the labor required to install any tile. A normal square pattern is the easiest to install and requires the least amount of tile. Diagonal patterns require much more cutting, are harder to keep aligned, and generally use more tiles because of all the cuts. Any circular pattern is the hardest to install and must be completely laid out before applying any mortar. This can be accomplished by a homeowner but he/she must have a lot of patience and a good quality tile saw and circle cutter. Any inlaid pattern adds depth and appeal to a floor or wall but increases the labor exponentially.
Fourth, consider whether it is a floor or wall.
Floors are easier to install than walls but remember that the best way to install a new floor is to tile the entire floor. This means removing the toilet and vanity or kitchen appliances and base cabinets. Failure to remove any of these leaves an area that water can penetrate and makes it almost impossible to replace in the future without doing more tile work. Also make sure the floor is solid with no flexing between joists. Walls are harder to install because the tile tends to slip and move around, making it harder to keep your tile square and level. It is also harder to keep the tile perfectly flat due to bowed studs and out of square walls. Last but not least, tub and shower walls have a lot of holes and cut outs (faucet, tub spout, soap dish, towel bar, etc.). Kitchen walls have the same problem with switches and receptacle cut outs and the added problem of cutting around the wall cabinets. |
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